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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.